Wednesday 28 June

I wake feeling much more human and pleased to have survived the night at sea. We enter Magdalenefjorden and are very excited to see our first blue ice and glaciers tumbling into the ocean. Reflections in the early morning sunlight with a cup of tea on deck. We are a little apprehensive about our first landing and transfer in Polarcirkel boats. However we manage to negotiate the gang plank and land at a beached area close to the glacier. There is a pile of massive walruses, groaning and bearing their tusks. We are even lucky enough to see a group of them swimming. Mum manages the rocky terrain very well and is excited to find 2 more varieties of Saxifrage. She is down on her knees with her magnifying glass of course. She has seen 8 species of Svalbard wildflower so far, only 157 to go! 
Back to the boat for lunch and some sightseeing from the deck. Another launch to land at Sallyhamna and some more rock scrambling and wading through snow. We are nearly attacked by Arctic Terns who have nests in the rocks. We see ancient and more modern whalers' cabins, blubber ovens and a polar fox trap. We know this is polar bear country as we see some footprints in the snow and a large poo full of hair and a tooth suggesting that a large male bear had eaten a cub. We choose not to take a photograph and as our Aussie friend pointed out it would be a "shit photo!" At the end there is an opportunity to swim in the Arctic waters so of course I feel I have to represent Team GB.  It is nearly freezing although we don't have to break the ice to get in. I haven't got a swimming costume so manage in my pants and a t-shirt which seems like a good idea until I emerge and it is completely see through. At least I still have the remnants of a Sardinian tan. Back to ship for a warm shower. We don thermal suits and find our way to the bow from which we scour the horizon of the frozen inlet of Raudfjoden for signs of a polar bear. In vain. We enjoy our supper much more this evening without the imminent threat of storm and sea sickness. At 9pm we cross 80 degrees north and celebrate with cheers and a free glass of Champagne on the aft deck. In the evening sun we follow the edge of the ice flow but sadly still no sign of a polar bear although more basking walruses. The sea north of here remains frozen all year round. Next stop the North Pole!
There are glimpses of a Blue Whale from the starboard side but it is shy and no chance for photos.