Thursday 29 June

We wake as we approach Lillihookbreen glacier: a really massive cliff of blue ice tumbling into the sea. The water is like glass and there are icebergs and blocks of ice floating in the still waters. As we watch some ice melts from the glacier wall and plunges into the water with a loud crashing sound. This is known as calving. Black legged kittiwakes lie in wait for the fish and plankton that are disturbed as a result. We board polarcirkel boats and get nearer to the 6km cliff of glacier dodging the icebergs. The brilliant blue ice is a result of different oxygen concentrations and refraction of light. We treat ourselves to a beer on the deck enjoying the stunning scenery. 
After lunch we pass Cadiopynten: a cliff on which hundreds of birds are nesting: black legged kittiwakes, gillimots, little awks and even some puffin. There is much noise and a lot of guano. We are not close enough for good photos.  We land on another rocky and sandy area in Mollerfjord where there is a small one roomed shelter for travellers known as Lloyds Hotel. Despite the 5 stars painted on the outside it makes our cabin feel quite spacious. We see 6 Svalbard Reindeer but they are a long way away. Mum finds a few more wild flowers and is on her knees once more. 
After an early supper on board we arrive at Ny-Alesund, the northernmost town in the world: more picturesque than Barentsburg although the sunshine helps. With a traditional mining history and now an active research station the houses are wooden and brightly coloured. The evening light is beautiful on the fresh green tundra and snow capped mountains and fjords behind.

As we are leaving we get the closest view so far of several Blue Whales with puffs of spray and enormous glossy backs and fins just emerging from the sea. So exciting.

Hot chocolate and Danish Pastries in the midnight sun.